ne姓名(name)：Thomas Murphy

昵称(aka)：T-Murph

国籍：法国

年龄：24

爱好：运动（篮球、网球、攀岩、潜水、游泳、羽毛球、柔道），旅游

教育背景：Institut Supérieur de Design in Valenciennes (www.isd-up.com)

工作经历：Decathlon, Bag and Gears Protyping

Diedre Design Agency, Product Designer

Reebok,Apparel Designer

Adidas Solomon, Footwear Designer

Ie coq sportif, Footwear Designer

Adidas, Bags & Accessories Designer

Adidas ait.(Advance and Innovation Team), Footwear Designer

R: Ok, let’s get down to business, how did you step in the footwear design field?

(Ok, 采访开始了，你是如何进入运动鞋设计领域的？)

T: At the beginning I joined the Institut Supérieur de Design in Valenciennes and decided to enter the "Cars & Transports" branch as I was more interested in cars than general products

And I have always been passionate about sports, but they did not offer anything related to sports goods. so here I started designing concept cars, and perfected my drawing skills

I liked it a lot; but ended up realizing automotives were not my passion, and most of my classmates were car freaks. I was always some kind of sneaker freak too, spending some time in shoe shops while my mom was shopping, wondering which shoe I would buy if I had the money for it!! so I switched to product design in order to do more sport related products, and especially footwear design

（最开始，由于我比较喜欢车，所以我进入了Institut Supérieur de Design in Valenciennes的”汽车和交通运输”系。但我也十分痴迷于运动，很可惜的是这所学校不提供任何有关运动品设计的课程。所以根据专业我开始设计概念车，同时完善我的绘画技能。我开始很喜欢这个专业，但最后意识到这种设计生活不是我的兴趣所在。我周围的同学大多都是车迷，而我是个不折不扣的鞋迷，每次去商场的时候，我母亲去购物，而我则在鞋店里面幻想如果有足够的钱我会买哪双鞋！所以最终我转了专业，来到了产品设计系，作一些能与运动有关的产品设计，尤其是运动鞋 ）

R: Have you ever met any problems at the beginning of your career, if you had, how did you get over them?

（在你的设计生涯初期，遇到过什么麻烦么？如果有，你是如何克服的？）

T: I did on my first footwear related internship I did for Solomon, as it was difficult to start with. I had only dawned cars before, and it took me a while to get some correct sketches at first, understanding the proportions to respect, and what was feasible or wasn’t.

so I can say now that I was quite useless for over 2 months he he; and I remember the design manager trying to encourage me saying "hum.. ok, keep on going.."

but eventually, doing more and more and especially asking questions around, for feedback or talking to developers asking questions about everything (like a kid asking his dad how milk is made) got me to understand a lot, improve and I ended up designing a sandal that is now commercialized, the Revco Light。It was a really great moment when I saw the prototype for the first time, I couldn’t believe it and was so exited to see how some sketches kind of "came to life"!

（我第一份有关运动鞋设计的实习机会是Salomon公司提供的，真的很艰辛呢。因为我原来仅仅设计过汽车，所以针对运动品设计，我费了很长的时间来改进设计图，去理解正确的构图比例，以及哪些设计是可行的。所以坦白的说在起初的两个月中，我感到自己对公司来说特别没用（笑）。我依然记得设计经理不断地在鼓励我：“嗯…继续加油吧”

但是最终，由于我勤于练习，积极提问并得到相应的反馈，并且经常与改进师聊天并问一切问题（就像孩子问他的父亲牛奶是怎么做的），这令我收获很大。最终我设计的一双凉鞋--Revco Light得到了认可并最终投放市场。看到样板的那一刻真是太棒了，我自己都不敢相信。自己的设计图化为成品真是非常令人兴奋的事！）

R：Can you tell us where the inspirations for your footwear design come from?

(能不能给我们的读者透露一下你的灵感来源？)

T: it really depends. I have no source in particular, and it's always different depending on the briefing, but i still like car designs, and I still check out design websites and news, products exhibitions, interior designs and I think bags and accessories and quite related to footwear and should be a constant inspiration too。

（这要看情况，因为我没有任何实际意义上的灵感来源。我仍然喜欢汽车设计，经常会去一些设计类的网站并获取新闻，看一些汽车展览和内部设计。不过我觉得一些背包和配件可以成为一些固定的灵感）

R：I know you can use so many soft wares that can assist your design，but do you still draw sketches。

（我知道你运用很多的软件来设计运动鞋，但是你还在手绘草稿么？）

T：Yes. it's something I see less and less around me, colleagues I've been with are now just doing quick sketching then drawing directly on illustrator; but I still like to sketch a lot and I need to kind of "let the pen flow" to find my ideas.

it is also one of the reason I'm passionate about footwear design or transports as I feel they are the rare domains where sketching and styling is still very important

（当然，虽然现在手绘稿这种东西越来越少见了，我的同事们经常仅仅画一个非常粗略的土然后就直接用illustrator作图了。但是我仍然喜欢并且经常手绘，而且我需要这种”让笔在纸上滑动”的形式来求索设计的思路。另一个原因是，我之所以仍然对运动鞋设计报有很大的激情，是因为我感觉运动鞋设计是现在为数不多的，手绘和风格仍占重要地位的领域）

R: can you tell us the steps for sneaker design to our Chinese readers?

（能不能向我们的读者透露一些运动鞋设计的步骤呢？）

T：About the steps, in most footwear companies, a designer first receives a briefing from a marketibg. That briefing is usually a text document that describes the requested product : Type of shoe, target, budget allowed for that development, final price in store, deadline etc.. are the most important.

It's always good to start with a little research, looking at what’s on the market , the competitors, what’s been done before, and the trends to come etc.

then you can start giving your own directions, and can start research sketching. That's when you can be mostly creative, depending on the schedule, you'll have to present a certain number of directions to be presented to the different actors of the project; then you have to develop the chosen direction

that's when you will work a lot with the developers, drawing also the technical drawings in all views, sections etc, according to what is feasible。

The final phase is about receiving the prototypes, and doing the necessary modifications to them until the final approval for sending to production.

关于步骤，在大多数运动鞋公司里，设计师首先从产品经理处得到一份有关这种产品的类型，市场目标，售价和设计预算。

接着你要开始做一些调查，看看在这个设计范围内的趋势和别人已经做过的东西。然后就要开始手绘草图，如果你有足够创造力，在时间允许的情况下，你可以朝3个以上的方向来设计。

然后经过市场部和其他部门的讨论，你要去改进选定的这个设计。你要和其他的改进师一起来工作，看看什么是可行的改进设计。

最后的阶段就是审查样品，做最后一次有必要的修改。

R：there is a trend in China that more and more rookies use Photoshop and illustrator to design their sneakers, do you have some advices for them？

(在中国，新晋设计师用Photoshop和Illustrator来设计运动鞋已经成为了一种趋势，对于这些设计师你有什么想对他们说的？)

T：First as a start I would say the proportions are really important, that means as a start its important to use pictures of existing shoes as backup to to start drawing. Then u can start putting ur lines, don't forget about hand sketch!! it's then nice to redraw the correct lines on illustrator, and later export it to Photoshop to color it up. I used to take pictures of shoes in close-up and convert them into patterns you can play around with in Photoshop

Second, keep going! If you're really passionate about something, working hard to it should become fun; improvements then come quickly and it's important to make some experience in a professional environement!

（第一千万不要忘记手绘！但是如果能在illustrator上面画出正确的线条，然后将它导入Photoshop去上色。我经常近距离拍下很多球鞋的照片然后把它们转换成可以在Photoshop中使用的图案。

第二，继续下去！如果你真的对某种事物有着极大的兴趣，为它而努力工作将会是一种快乐，并且很快你就可以获得能力的提高。另外，在一些体育用品公司工作的经历也很重要